Bird Cage Portal's PET BIRD BUZZ Blog - About Pet Birds and Pet Bird Supplies
A blog dedicated to the companion birds in your life!
Pet Bird BUZZ shares our thoughts and experiences of living with pet birds for over 25 years, along with comments about bird cages, bird supplies and accessories offered at BIRD CAGE PORTAL. Pet Bird BUZZ is all about having a great relationship with pet birds and providing them with the best envirnoment and a great life!
Lately there has been some debate going on whether or not parrots need of grit. This is a common question of concern to bird owners, as well as a source of disagreement. Understanding what grit is, the purpose, and the possible problems that could result from its use, can help you make an educated decision on whether or not to offer it to your bird.
The Purpose of Grit
“Grit is used by birds to aid in digestion of seeds” is a comment heard repeatedly in both outdated parrot care books or other related texts. What this comment fails to convey is that grit is used by birds to aid in the digestion of whole, intact seeds. Birds digestive enzymes work amazingly well in digesting the inner portion of the seeds, but can have difficulty in breaking down the hull (which is the fibrous outer coating). Grit, in the avian ventriculus, aids in grinding and wearing away the outer shell of the seeds enabling the digestive enzymes to reach the nutrients within the inner portion of the seed.
What Exactly Is Grit?
The term grit is often loosely used and not entirely explained. There are two groups of substances that go by the name of grit -- soluble and insoluble. Insoluble grit is the type that is being discussed here. It is composed of minute substances such as sandstone and other minerals often found in dirt and clays. Insoluble grit cannot be digested and will remain in the body until expelled.
Soluble grit is organic and can include crushed shells ... often oyster shells or cuttlebone. Since soluble grit is mostly calcium carbonate it is easily digested by the acids found in the proventriculus and poses little danger of accumulating in the digestive system. However, while soluble grit can offer an alternative source of calcium it does little in actually aiding the digestion of seeds.
Do Birds Really Require Grit?
In the United States, the general consensus seems to be "no". The purpose of grit is to remove the outer coatings of whole seeds, so it seems reasonable to assume that only birds which consume seeds intact, such as doves, require grit in their diet. Birds such as parrots, and even finches and canaries, hull their seeds therefore not needing the extra aid that grit would provide. In fact, some species of parrots have ridges on the inside portion of their upper beak that is believed to aid in the shelling of seeds. The seed is held in place by the ridges, while the lower beak is used to crack and remove the hull. Birds on a pelleted diet should not require grit either. In the US, the use of grit is generally discouraged, especially if offered freely, which may lead to obstructive gastritis. Although in Australia, grit is commonly given to pet birds with few problems being reported. At the time this article was written there is no explanation for these interesting geographical differences.
Potential Problems
If given freely some birds may over-consume grit products leading to a possibility of impaction. It is also recommended to check the contents of any commercially-made grit mixtures as some may contain charcoal. Charcoal can affect the absorption of vitamins resulting in deficiencies.
In conclusion, the benefit of grit for parrots and softbills has not been positively demonstrated. Potential risks have been observed, as well as potential health benefits. If offered at all, we recommend offering it in moderation.
Debunking of the article "Bird Marts - The single greatest threat to avian health"
There has been an article circulating the internet for some time now, which essentially bashes what is very commonplace in the bird world ... bird marts. This article makes very dangerous claims that have raised the hackles of many avian enthusiasts today. The subjects swabbed eight different events across the country for disease at such bird events. The author claims that the goal of the testing "was to be able to demonstrate these problems exist universally throughout the US" and lists the results of the events. All records listed claim that the events tested yielded positive results for two or more major diseases. The article then goes on to continually bash anyone who participates in such events. Even going so far to conclude that "The potential for generating and spreading fatal avian diseases is unsurpassed anywhere in the world as it is at 'bird mart' type events. We have not found a single 'bird event' free of these diseases.... it is unconscionable to believe that ...
anyone who cares for birds would hold any event where young birds are present for display or sale
anyone would attend any event to purchase items for birds
any person would ever attend any event with such a high degree of fatal organisms waiting to be transmitted to healthy birds
anyone would support or recommend any such event."
Such bold, brash statements leave me reeling every time I read this article ... and I have gone over it many times! In all fairness to such "'bird events" let’s discuss the many aspects not included in the article, and why such statements should be made with caution.
Issue #1 - "These events have risen to become the single greatest threat to bird health we have ever encountered."
The above statement is bold one. It’s enough to strike fear into any bird owners heart. The last thing we wish to do is track home communicable diseases that could make our birds sick, and potentially transmit to our entire flock. What this statement does not include is several key elements. Who backs this statement that marts are the single greatest threat we have ever encountered? Are there statistics to back up this so called data? How many birds a year are victim of disease brought home from a mart? Why target just marts? Bird marts are not the only places where people can go and interact with birds, food, and supplies in an open area. Bird stores that have live stock are the same, and there are even tourist attractions that mimic the atmosphere of a mart or show. In Miami, Florida, Parrot Jungle comes to mind. One can pay an admission fee (like a mart), walk through the many rows of birds that are out on stands and in habitats (like a mart). You can interact with some of the birds by feeding them, holding them, or even taking a picture with them (like a mart). Parrot Mountain in Tennessee is the same way. So why single out marts? There are many other venues that have the possibility to be just as dangerous, if not more.
Issue #2 - The tests and subsequent results
The article makes the bold claim that "our goal was to be able to demonstrate these problems exist universally”, and presents the results in a tabled fashion. Unfortunately, there are so many holes in the information presented its next to impossible to be able to grasp the entire picture. The article claims that eight events were tested, and swabbed for the following diseases: PBFD, Polyoma, and Chlamydia. In each event, two out of 3 diseases yielded positive results. What the article fails to say is how exactly the areas were tested. Was each area tested multiple times, in case of a false positive? Exact dates and locations are not listed, only month and year. The testing started in 1998, and ended in 2000, according to the so called study. Did the testing method vary at all? Were multiple swabs taken and tested by a panel of certified avian veterinarians, to ensure that a full spectrum study was carried out?
Unfortunately, so much as the text of the article reveals, none of the above questions can be answered. One question that lingers in my mind is if there was such a high case of disease, were the venues notified so they could be properly disinfected? Interestingly, some of the test results report positives from a "reptile exhibitor". Seeing as how reptiles are not birds, and therefore have different diseases that live on them (case in point, salmonella and turtles,) are those results an accurate reflection of true avian diseases? Another burning question I have is where these tests were taken specifically. The claim to "demonstrate these problems exist universally" cannot be supported. Eight tests in eight locations is a small number in comparison to the number of events and locations that take place each year. Because no information was given as to where the tests were conducted, it can only leave us to wonder if all these events happened in the same state or within the same area. If this is true, then the results yielded would be inconclusive as it would be a contained breakout and not one that people nationally must be concerned about.
Issue #3 - The time period
Whenever someone brings this article to my attention (as it is on a semi regular basis ... such is the internet age), the first thing I question is if this information is even relevant anymore. Why do I wonder this? Because all of this information was collected and presented eight years ago. While eight years doesn't appear to be a long time in the past, with the rapid way we are embracing technology to learn more about our avian friends, eight years can be a lifetime. Eight years ago, we knew a lot less about food, diet, nutrition, Vitamin D synthesis, and viruses (just to name a few) then we do today. In this day and age we are armed with information that can overrule previously believed and carried out bird keeping practices. In eight years, great strides have been made with diseases such as Polyoma, PDD, and Aspergilliousis. Case in point is the statement made by the article author "Some exhibitors proudly display signs stating that their birds are protected by a Polyoma vaccine. Whether or not the vaccine offers any protection from Polyoma is still up for debate...". Such a statement is a true sign of the times. Nowadays, it is the norm to vaccinate all chicks for polyoma, and species such as caiques that are more susceptible to the diseases are required to have the vaccination because it is proven to be effective.
Issue #4 - Incomplete study
The statement that winds up the article is one that boldly proclaims "We have not found a single bird event free of these diseases!" Again, I must reiterate. Only eight events were tested. The testing stopped in the year 2000 and only spanned a period of study lasting two years. How many events occurred during and since the period of testing? One can only guess. I have attended several bird events including actual bird shows, marts (with vendors), and roundtables. Many event curators now are starting to understand the worry of disease, and taking many precautions to prevent the spread of pathogens. The last mart I attended personally, all birds that were in the area had been tested only days before by a certified avian veterinarian, and were given a clean bills of health. Birds that did not vet check well were not allowed on the premises. While this is not the case for every event I have attended, it is certainly becoming more the norm.
Be Smart
Don't let such articles keep you at home, worrying about potential diseases you could bring back to your pet bird. Anytime you enter into a store that carries live stock, go to a friend’s house that has birds, or even attend a bird club meeting, you are entering into a scenario where there would be disease. That doesn't mean you can't take proper precautions. Whenever entering into an event taking the following precautions will help keep your household happy and healthy.
Don't buy supplies that are unwrapped or cannot be disinfected (e.g. leather products, edible products) from any source that contains livestock. This goes for stores, educational venues, and marts/shows/etc. Always buy items that are sealed, and/or can be easily disinfected.
If you interact with other animals, be sure to sanitize properly before going and interacting with your animals at home. If going out to an event, wear clothes that you can easily change out of upon arriving home. Wash your hands thoroughly before touching your birds.
Wear an old pair of shoes. It’s been suggested that a number of pathogens are tracked in on the bottom of shoes. Wear an old pair of shoes to any such event, and remove them before walking into your house.
Play it safe. If you are at an event, ask to see the health certificate of the birds you interact with. Perhaps inquire if there was any required testing for the birds that are on display. When were they tested, and what were they tested for?
Avoid bulk bins
Bird marts, fairs, and other venues can be very educational experiences for bird owners. Taking the proper precautions can help make these events a fun and stress-free time.
Are you in need of a new bird cage? Cage shopping can be overwhelming, frustrating, and time consuming. But don't be discouraged ... when you find the perfect cage there isn't much that is as rewarding ... and yes, fun! There are so many brands and models to choose from not to mention all the little things you have to consider, such as: bar spacing, cage dimensions, style and brand, just to name a few. There are so many options out there, how can you ever narrow it down?
First, decide what you want the cage for. Will it be your bird's permanent residence? Or used as a sleeping cage or perhaps a travel carrier. Next, consider the size of the bird that will inhabit the cage. Let’s assume for the sake of this article the cage is a permanent residence. Rule of thumb is that the cage must be wide enough for the bird to stretch its wings out fully, without getting tangled in the bars. Ideally the cage should also be double the height of the bird. For a smaller species, this could lead to the conclusion that a small cage will work. This is not true. Most small birds are very active and appreciate room to roam. And don’t forget that no matter how small or large a bird is the cage must accommodate more than just the bird. Multiple perches, toys, food/water bowls are necessities and take up space. And for some birds, items like sleepy tents are welcome accessories.
Next, consider your budget. While used cages sometimes prove to be good investments be sure to be sure the powder coating is in good shape, there is no rust, and the overall strength of the cage is intact. Before allowing your birds access to a used cage disinfect the cage thoroughly with a mild bleach or products such as Pet Focus. If using bleach be sure to rinse the cage promptly so the finish is not affected. It is possible to find a service that can re-powder coat a used cage. However, if the powder coat is of safe quality and the workmanship meets a high criteria the expense may not prove worthwhile when added to the initial cost vs. a brand new cage.
Alternatively to a used cage, there are a number of cage manufacturers providing beautiful environments in all styles, sizes, colors, finishes and amenities. Both powder-coated cages as well as stainless steel or aluminum cages are available to meet most any need. Prices vary, but they will be more expensive than used cages. But with a name brand cage you can depend on the safety of the powder-coat and general construction and that it will be appropriate for your bird.
Are you considering buying a water bottle for your bird, but don't know what to look for? When buying a bottle for a parrot you must consider the following:
durability
safety
ease of use
size
The size of the bottle is very important. Consider the size of the bird and size of the beak in comparison to the size of the bottle and spout. You don't want the expense of a bottle that you later find out to be suited for a canary when your bird is an amazon! You also want to consider what the bottle is made of. The cheaper alternatives are made of plastic in varying ranges of thickness. While plastic bottles may be OK for smaller birds those with larger beaks are more apt to do serious damage to the bottle. The heavy duty glass bottles (that normally resemble old milk bottles) are best for birds larger then a budgie.
You also want to make sure that the spout is made of a bird safe material. Some of the cheaper bottles have plastic spouts. You do not want to risk your bird being able to bite right through the spout and flooding its cage. Look for bottles that are outfitted with stainless steel spouts.
Is the bottle easy to use? Some bottles appear to be ok, but the ball will stick or is hard to manipulate within the spout which will restrict water flow. Other bottles may be easy for the bird to use, but hard for the human to change out on a daily basis. Even though the water bottle holds more then your average water dish, make sure to change out the water on a daily basis. So consider ease of use from your point of view.
There are many brands of bottles to choose from but I've found Lixit to be the best. Lixit bottle are the most popular brand and for good reason. Their water bottles come outfitted with stainless steel parts and the bottles are heavy glass that will stand up to a lot of 'beaking'. My birds each have a glass Lixit bottle and I am very pleased with them ... they are easy to clean, stand up well to large beaks, and do not leak.
Even if your bird has a bottle as it's water source also consider giving your bird the traditional bowl as well. Since many birds are natural "soup makers" giving them a way to wet their food will prevent attempted "dunkings" in the spout of the bottle. There are also some species that backwash for sanitary reasons, like amazons, so having a bowl of water is important. I personally use both water bowls and dishes. My birds enjoy drinking out of the bottles and will dunk their food in the bowls but then go to the bottle to actually drink. Please remember to carry out the same sanitary precautions with a water bottle as you would a bowl.
The holiday season is a time for travel and for pet owners that can be especially stressful. Finding kennels for cats and dogs is relatively easy, but how about one that specializes in birds? One that will recognize the importance of the seemingly small details that are so critical to good bird care? Thinking about it is enough to make you pull your hair out! Not to fret, while it can be a seemingly overwhelming burden ... there is hope. There are many options to choose from. There are several in-house pet sitting services that have avian knowledge. Also, boarding is available at a facility set up specifically for avians, at your vets, or you can even entrust your bird to a dependable friend while on holiday.
If you are transporting your bird to a boarding facility you be sure you can do so safely with a travel carrier appropriate for your bird.
When hiring a professional pet sitting service to come into your home and care for your animals, consider a few things.
Is the business professional and licensed
Is the business professional and bonded, and/or insured?
What prior experience with avians does the caretaker have?
Getting recommendations from other bird owners is a good way to start the search for a professional sitter. You can also use online resources such as the website for the National Associate of Petsitters located at www.petsitters.org to find a petsitter in your area that meets your requirements. Many sitters also arrange a pre-meeting so they can come to your house and meet with you. That way you can review how they interact with your animals and is highly recommended. If you hire through an agency, make sure the agency is in good standing with your local and state agencies. Be sure you get a signed contract of services rendered, and that it explains clearly what liability the company/agency will take if unexpected accidents happen in your absence.
For whatever venue you choose to board your bird while you are away, be sure to ask the caretaker of the bird questions such as those listed below to ensure the health and happiness of your pets:
What type of training do you have?
Do you have previous experience caring for exotics & avians?
How many other pet sitting obligations will the sitter have during the period they will have your pet(s) under their care?
Can the employee provide references?
What precautions will the sitter take to prevent the transmission of diseases?
How many times a day will they come to your home, and how much time will they spent at each visit?
Will they interact with the bird, clean the cage, etc.
What is the cost of each service?
Are they willing to cook food for your bird or will all supplies have to be prepared in advance?
You want to also touch base with the employee and find out how knowedgeable they are about your species of bird(s). If they have general knowledge, it may be a good idea to send home some literature about your birds. That way you ensure they will will know the differences in species and the particular care each species may require. A lesson on how to properly handle the bird would be important as well. Be sure to leave a large flyer in an easy to locate place, i.e. the fridge for instance, detailing the emergency contact numbers, your number, alternate number, and avian vet number in case of emergency.
Good luck in your search for the ideal pet sitter. While the search may be harder then expected, the reward of leaving with peace of mind that your pet is safe will make your vacation all the better. Happy travels!
As a bird owner, I’m sure you’ve had someone recommend that you place a cuttlebone in your birds cage. Perhaps you’ve seen it in the store and wondered what exactly is this strange, solid-yet-flaky substance? As far as you may be aware, it’s a good source of calcium.
Cuttlebone is indeed a bone. In fact, it is a hard, brittle internal structure found in cuttlefish (yes, they do exist!) The bone is composed primarily of calcium carbonate. If you have cuttlebone, you’ll notice how light it is and that it seems to have small ‘air holes’. This is because it is a chambered, gas filled shell that the fish uses as buoyancy control. In the past, cuttlebones have been used for numerous things such as: polishing powder, toothpaste, and antacids. Ever heard of sepia ink? That was a bi-product of cuttlefish as well. Like squid they expel a dark, almost black ink when threatened. Artists would gather this ink and use it for their paintings or drawings.
But lets back up for a second. What exactly is a cuttlefish? Is it a fish, a squid, or just a really creepy looking animal that floats aimlessly around the ocean? Cuttlefish are actually not technically fish. They are marine animals in the order of Sepiida, belonging to the Cephalopoda class. This class also includes the cuttlefish’s close cousins, squid, octopuses, and nautiluses. Cuttlefish are said to be more closely related to your common variety garden slug, then an actual fish!
Cuttlefish have an internal shell (the cuttlebone), large pupils, eight arms, and two tentacles furnished with sucker which they secure to their prey. What do they eat you may ask? Cuttlefish prey on mollusks, crabs, shrimp, fish, and even other cuttlefish. Their natural predators include: dolphins, sharks, fish, seals, and other cuttlefish.
Interestingly, there are few cuttlefish species that are actually native to American oceans, most of which are living in the southerwestern Pacific Ocean. It is said that in areas where there are many native cuttlefish species, a person walking the beach can collect cuttlebones that wash ashore.
Back to the bone
Cuttlebone can be purchased at your local pet store. Different sizes of cuttlebone come from different species of cuttlefish, but no worries they all have the same nutritional value! Cuttlebone is a very common way that pet owners get some calcium into their birds’ regular diet. Perhaps you have seen different colored cuttlebone in the store. Some companies flavor the cuttlebone and dye it hues of oranges, pinks, and greens in an attempt to make it more appealing and tasty. You may see different varieties of cuttlebone as well. Recently I’ve noticed that in addition to the dyed cuttlebone, companies have started incorporating a mineral block into the cuttlebone. I picked up a cuttlebone the other day that had a mineral block outer layer, and a cuttlebone inner layer.
White is the natural color of cuttlebone, and one you most commonly see in bulk bins at your local pet store. Cuttlebone is readily available, I’ve even found cuttlebone at a country feed store. It is easy to come across, and an inexpensive way to introduce calcium into your birds diet.
During the holidays there are many new and exciting things we use to decorate around the house that can be as dangerous to your avian friend as they are pretty. We want your holidays to be fun and safe, so we are addressing the common holiday household dangers for 2009.
Holly
Among the most common decorations for the winter season is mistletoe. This often seen holiday plant that harbors such a fairy tale legend also has a dark side. Mistletoe is part of the Viscaceae family, and the form commonly seen in North America is a hybrid plant of both English and European varieties. Mistletoe is famous for bearing it’s fruit in the winter months making it a popular decoration during the Christmas season. The red berries that are such a trademark of mistletoe are toxic to our avian friends, as are holly berries. Another favorite holiday plant, the Poinsetta, can cause GI tract irritation if ingested.
Other holiday decorations such as tinsel, angel hair, and other common Christmas tree adornments are made of plastic. They should be kept out of reach of your bird(s) at all times, as they are made of plastic and could become impacted in the crop of accidentally ingested. Your favorite holiday scents can be dangerous to your birds, too. Burning candles should used with diligence, and birds should always be kept in the cage if a candle is lit. Candles, which have a bad reputation for lead in the wick are safer now due to new regulations. More bird owners are beginning to use them again. If you do use a candle, use one that is made out of a natural material such as soy or beeswax and is not heavily scented. Remember, our feathered friends have a respiratory system different than ours. Because of the way the air they breathe travels into their system any scent can be especially irritating.
Remember as you invite guests into your home this holiday season to keep tempting foodstuffs away from your avian companion. Alcoholic beverages, avocado, coffee, and salted foods should not be given to your bird under any circumstances.
Of course, with all these cautions, it doesn’t mean that your feathered friend can’t participate in the festivities of the holiday! Buying a festive bird safe toy to adorn the cage is a safe and fun way to celebrate and keep your companion happy and entertained. Many pet owners also have gotten into the spirit by choosing holiday themed toys for their avian companions. For added fun, wrap the ‘gift’ in a piece of newspaper and place in the bird’s cage. Watch the bird unravel the present with delight!
As winter weather approaches we get a lot of questions regarding keeping your bird warm. How to do it safely? What’s the ideal temperature for your pet parrot? Can I use a space heater? We want to address all these concerns and more.
Hardy species of parrots have been known to
survive in frigid conditions
As soon as the temperature starts dropping my heat bill starts going up. When the heat bill goes up, I add an extra layer of clothing and turn the thermostat down to save some money on the heat bill. But what about the animals? My cats have thick fur coats, they’ll be ok. But parrot feathers don’t seem exactly warm, do they? Well, they probably are reasonably warm, but may not be warm enough for easy adjustment to quickly falling temps. Since I have Caiques and other South American species, I looked up the average temperature for their natural region. I found that the weather the wild birds acclimate to is 55 – 64 degrees Fahrenheit. Since my birds are indoor pets I don’t have to worry about dropping the temperature down that low. I keep my thermostat at about 68 degrees during the day and drop it down another notch at night. I do cover my birds at night in the winter months to help with added warmth and keep off any air that may be blowing on them when the heater kicks on.
If you still don’t feel comfortable with your bird at cooler temperatures there are other alternatives. Heated perches are very popular. They are fitted so that the cord stays outside of the cage, and the perch heats up slightly to provide a warm place for your bird to roost. If you have a bird that likes to chew and destroy his perches, I would be wary of putting one in the cage. I know of other owners that purchase the ceramic heat emitters that are found in the reptile section of your petstore and use those at night for their birds. The heat emitter does not emit light, only heat, making it ideal for night use. If you do choose to get a heat emitter make sure that you buy the appropriate outfit for it. You’ll want to get a holder that has a ceramic base to screw the bulb in. Otherwise you run a risk of fire as the heat emitter can get too hot to use in regular sockets.
If your bird is a snuggler you can also hang a cozy tent in its cage. Cuddling up to the warm fleece at night will help keep your parrot warm during the cold months.
Owners that keep their birds outdoors report the animals acclimating quickly to the outdoor temperatures. Aviary owners make sure their birds have an indoor area to get away from the elements, as well as an outdoor flight for the birds to frolic. I’ve seen many pictures of cockatoos at the rescue Mollywood in Washington choosing to romp outdoors in the snow of their flights in the winter season. Birds can acclimate much easier to cold weather then they can to hot weather. If allowed to acclimate, it is reported that they do extremely well in cooler temperatures. Your pet is hardier then you may think! But be careful of truly frigid weather, especially if the temps drop quickly ... birds need time to acclimate and definitely need added protection against wind and rain.
Often times the subject of supplemental heat in the home, mainly spaceheaters, comes up as soon as the weather gets chilly. Bird owners trying to save money on heat always question the safety of heaters. Some well known brands of heaters can have teflon (PTFE) on them, so buying a safe heater can be a bit tricky if you don’t know the right questions to ask. From my experience, some options that are safe include the Optimus rotating oscillating heat fan, which the manufactuerers ensure has no PTFE on it. Some brands of ceramic heaters are said to be safe as well. Among bird owners the favorites are the ‘radiator’ type of heaters that have oil components and no teflon.
Here is a good way for your small to medium size birds to enjoy some winter sun … a Wingdow Seat! These creative, durable molded plastic window perches attach to almost any window with industrial strength suction cups. They not only provide your bird entertainment but will protect him from chilly winter drafts while he enjoys viewing outside activity.
Winter doesn’t have to be a stressful time, so kick back and relax! Be vigilant, and you and your feathered friends will get through another cold season comfortably warm and stress free.
This question always seems to pop up when bird enthusiasts just get started in the care and keeping of their feathered friends. What cage liner is best to use? What is the cheapest method, and which is the safest? There are so many products (some misleading) that it can certainly lead you in obscure, not to mention potentially hazardous, directions. Let’s separate fact from fiction.
When first deciding what sort of liner to use consider your cage. Is the tray an odd shape? Does your cage have a grate to prevent your bird from tracking around the bottom? Can the bird reach the bottom with the gratein place? The answers to these questions will help determine which sort of liner is best suited for your situation. You want to pick a liner that can be easily examined, as a change in your birds droppings can be an indicator of illness. You want to choose a product that will make it easy to see the consistency, color, shape, and number of droppings. You also want a liner that will be easy to maintain and will not allow droppings, water, or other messy substances to permeate and cause potential mold issues.
Common Beddings on the Market Today Include:
Corn Cob Bedding while often marketed for pets and birds in particular, this product can cause more hazard then harm. Because it is so absorbent it can easily mold. The dust produced from the corn cob also has the potential to create respiratory issues in sensitive birds. If your bird has any access to his cage bottom at all, corn cob can pose a hazard if your bird accidentally ingests any of it.
Walnut Shells are another bedding type that is easy to come by, and at one time or another has been recommended as OK for birds. Walnut shells when eaten can irritate and inflame organs, causing discomfort, or even internal damage. Walnut shells are not recommended for avians.
Cedar Shavings can contain ingredients and natural oils that are toxic to birds. Their strong aroma can cause respiratory discomfort which can lead to allergic symptoms and irritation of the digestive track. Also, any sort of wood shavings are not ideal for ‘broody’ or ‘nesty’ female birds.
Pine Shavings unlike cedar are not toxic and are quite often used as nesting material for birds. We suggest using pine shavings for nesting material, but not as a bedding for the cage bottom. Shavings can increase hormonal behavior in female parrots especially if they have access to the shavings. If shavings are eaten crop impaction is another concern. If your bird is a bather, shavings are not recommended as they can easily harvest mold when wet.
Kitty Litter. I’ve heard of few owners using kitty litter in the bottom of the birds cage. The dust factor that is associated with litter alone makes using kitty litter a hugenegative issue. Clumping litter contains ingredients to make the litter swell, sometimes to ten times its normal size. So if ingested it poses a huge health hazard to your bird.
Paper Productsare seemingly the all around winner when it comes to cage liners. Easy to come by … I’ve heard of owners getting their paper from neighbors, buying end rolls from their local newspaper, and everything in between! Newspaper is probably the most commonly used cage liner. In the US all newspapers use a soy based ink which is safe for your bird in case it has access to the bottom of his cage. Actually soy based ink is said to have antibacterial properties, so it’s a healthy way to line your cage and ward off unwanted bacteria. It also has a slim risk for molding and is easy to clean.
Cage Catchers
Cage Catchers and KageLiners are two bird-safe alternatives currently available that have recently been getting a lot of praise. Cage Catchers is a brand name for a paper that is lightly waxed on one side which makes it better that newspaper since the waxed surface deters moisture absorption. This not only is healthier for your bird but helps protect cage trays from excessive moisture which often leads to metal tray damage. Cage Catchers come in many sizes and can even be custom cut to your specifications. A wallet-friendly alternative to paper, they make cleaning your cage easy and pain free. Cage Catchers, like paper, harbor little possibility for mold and give little opportunity for unwanted bacteria to fester.
Whatever you decide to use please make sure what you use is safe for your bird. We’ve heard owners using just about everything in their cages — from paper towels to aluminum foil (a big no!), even including fleece that is swapped out and washed daily. Whatever fits your cage, your budget, and your bird is what will be best for you! We recommend contacting your local newspaper to see if you can strike a bargain for their recyclables, or even the end rolls. If that isn’t possible, don’t forget the Cage Catchers … they are an ideal choice!
If you are looking to cut down on bird debris and mess, we also recommend checking out this great line of seed catchers, excellent products for small bird table-top cages.
A travel carrier is an essential accessory for a bird owner. Whether it be for car trips, road trips or traveling by plane, your bird will need a comfortable and safe way to travel with you. Travel carriers do not need to be as big as your bird’s regular cage, but should be large enough for the bird to fit comfortably and move around a bit. Keep in mind the duration your bird will be in the carrier — for a shorter day trip, a smaller carrier is fine. For a longer trip the bird will spend one or more days in, a larger carrier is recommended. An ideal carrier for up to a week’s travel time for small to medium-size birds is the Poquito Avian Hotel.
Poquito Avian Hotel
Types of Carriers
Depending on what type of travel you plan, there are many types of carriers available for your use. Airline approved carriers are a must for flight. Commonly used carriers include cat and dog carriers, modified to hold a perch and food dishes. There are bird specific carriers available including collapsible wire carriers with grates and locking trays, heavy duty stainless steel carriers available for those with big beaks, highly durable easy-to-carry aluminum carriers, and even acrylic or polycarbonate carriers. For short trips hand held carriers that have a mesh front may be ideal and are suitable for smaller birds that aren’t apt to chew. Whatever your desire, there is a model available that will suit you and your bird. I personally chose a wire knockdown model that allows the carrier to be stored easily when not in use. A great space saver!
Setting up the Travel Carrier
Choose a perch that will provide firm footing for your bird. Stay away from slick woods like manzanita and choose perches such as rope. I recommend perches like grapevine, cholla, or rope that will allow your bird to have a good grip. A perch should be installed toward the front of the carrier to accomodate the birds tail. Also in case of a sudden stop the bird will not be thrown forward, but will be able to lean forward and grab the front of the carrier. When choosing a toy for the carrier select one made out of soft material, and preferably mount it on the side of the carrier so the toy does not move when the vehicle is in motion.
Getting Ready to Go
Your bird should be comfortable and used to his carrier before any long trip. Putting his favorite toy and treats in the carrier will help put him at ease. Once he is used to his carrier it is advisable to take the bird on several short trips prior to the real trip. This will let you see how the bird reacts to the carrier and also to the trip. It is not uncommon for some parrots to experience car sickness, like my greencheek conure. If your bird does exhibit car sickness there are several things you can do to help ease the effects including: covering the carrier, trying the carrier in both the back and front seats of the car(safely buckled in), and if all else fails offering shredded ginger root prior to the trip can help ease any stomach upset.
Be sure to always secure your bird’s carrier with a seatbelt or other device. Like little children, a bird in a front seat could be vulnerable to injury if there was an accident and air bags were deployed.
Also be sure to bring adequate food and water for your feathered companion. It is recommended that providing juicy fruit or an ice cube will replace water on a short journey, as the bird will still recieve necesarry liquids without worry of water spilling. On extended travels your bird will need out of cage time, so a portable playgym or T-stand is recommended. There are several models available that break down making it easy for you to carry.
Before vacation day, it is recommended that you make sure your bird has been properly groomed. While some articles say that your bird requires a health certificate before any travel, this is largely untrue. If you are driving with your pet you will not need to provide proof of health inside the US. If you are flying or traveling by other means it is required that you have a recent (within 30 day) health certificate for all animals. If your bird is fully flighted, a harness for the journey is necessary to ensure your bird will not escape. I personally chose to clip all my birds prior to travel, as I want to be able to grab them quickly without worrying about putting on a harness in an emergency.
Always keep safety in mind while traveling. Keep your bird in the carrier while the vehicle is in motion. Climate and altitude changes can affect your pet so be sure to have weather conditions checked ahead of time. It is best to avoid crowds and never let your bird out of your sight. It is also advised to reserve your hotel ahead of time, so that you can be sure the place you rest is pet friendly. I found that Drury Suites Hotels were very accomodating and pet friendly.
It is also recommended that you bring along emergency contact numbers of both pet sitters and your avian vet. Carry your avian first aid kit, in case of an accident. Documents such as proof of ownership, breeders name/address, medical records, and a recent photo of your bird is recommended. Some owners have taken a further step and also microchipped their avian companions. If you have done this be sure to have the chip’s information in a safe place, and take it on your travels. The chance that you will need all this documentation and information is slim; however, the information would prove invaluable in case of an emergency.
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Bird Cage Portal is a great online source for buying quality pet bird supplies, accessories, bird cages and so much more ... at the lowest prices. It is also offers a guide to learning about good bird care and provides resources to insure the best life for your bird and the most enjoyment for you.
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